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Saturday, April 4, 2020

Sri Lanka - an abode of 'Tropical Modernism'

Sri Lanka is often referred to as the 'Pearl of the Indian Ocean', it is a hub for travellers with interests ranging from art and architecture to cultural, from adventure sports to wildlife, there is a lot to explore on this island.
In Sept, 2015 I along with my friends went to explore eminent architect  Geoffery Bawa's tropical modernism and some cultural and historical destinations in Sri Lanka.
Here I would share some vignettes of an architecture voyage.


Sri Lanka: destinations covered during the trip
The destinations covered under this post:
Geoffery Bawa's projects:
1. Bentota Railway Station
2. Lunuganga, Dedduwa, Bentota
3. Heritance Kandalama, Dambulla
4. Paradise Road Gallery Cafe`, Colombo
5. Number 11, Colombo

Cultural and historical destination
A. Galle
B. Sigriya

How to reach?
Colombo is the capital of Sri Lanka, well connected via air routes from all metros in India.
Cheapest flight is from Chennai, which is of duration 1 hour 30 min. 

Bentota
After reaching Colombo, first stop we would recommend Bentota, which is 80 km from the capital city.
You may take a train from Fort Railway Station in Colombo to Bentota which takes almost 1 hour 30 min.
                                                                                               
1.  Bentota Railway Station


Bentota Railway Station
On reaching Bentota, the station building intrigued me..its like a platform imitating a train coach with a layer of clay tile roof over it, a fine example of blend of modernity and vernacular architecture, designed by eminent architect Geoffery Bawa.
It is located on the sea side of the town.....a bridge connects the railway station and the beach.

2.  Lunuganga, Bentota

Lunuganga- an architecture voyage
Lunuganga was designed to accomplish Geoffery Bawa's failed dream of buying a Villa overlooking Lake Grada - Italy, he was looking for a place for retreat as an artistic dilettante. For 50 years, Lunuganga has been a project laboratory where he experimented his ideas by tweaking and molding the landscape in search of creating a country life of Europe, he created a tropical version of Italian garden. Infact in this search he became the pioneer of tropical modernism.  

Lunuganga comprises of :
Lunuganga: Overlooking Dedduwa Lake
1. "Sandalla"the Garden Room 
2. The Gallery Room
3. The Glass Room
4. The Gate House
5.  Main House
6.  Guest House
7.  Blue Pavilion
8.  Black Pavilion
9.  Rice fields
10.Mangrooves
11.Lily Pond
12.Water gate and Leopard
13.Cinnamon hill house

"Sandalla" - The Garden Room
How to reach?
Lunuganga estate is around 10 km from Bentota Railway Station, a tuk tuk (three-wheeler) ride is easily available, which is a most common means of transport in Sri Lanka.

Timings:
Garden is open to the public every day between 9:00 am and 5:00 pm by appointment. 
It is a guided tour for approx. duration of 2 hours which is inclusive under an entry fee of Rs. 600 (Sri Lankan Rupees).

"Sandalla" - The Garden Room

Recommendation:
A stay for a day or two in the estate suites is highly recommended for nature lovers.

For tariffs and reservations:
Lunuganga Estate
Dedduwa, Bentota, Sri Lanka
Website: www.lunuganga.com
Telephone:  +94 77 642 2444
Facebook:
www.facebook.com/lunugangaestate
Reservations: reservation@lunuganga.com

3.  Heritance Kandalama, Dambulla 

Heritance Kandalama

Kandalama hotel is a fine example of a merger of architecture and landscape, situated at a unique location- ridge with dense forests at the background and Kandalama lake in the foreground. The building is entirely covered with the forests. Each and every space is designed in such a manner that it opens up into a lake or forests.
Though the merger of architecture with forests makes the built form static but the fine play of levels and placement of infinity pool and other swimming pools at different levels with creepers falling on facade makes it look dynamic.
While walking onto the spine connecting the Dambulla Wing and Sigriya Wing, it seems one is walking in the mid of the forests in the overhanging cliff. 
Kandalama was once beautifully conceived by Geoffery Bawa, as a --
"belvedere on a series of magic views, as an enjoyment itself."

Infinity Pool, Heritance Kandalama
How to reach?
Kandalama hotel is 4 hours drive from Colombo.

Note: Forest road which goes to the hotel is also an elephant corridor which they usually cross in search of water in the Kandalama Lake.
One need to be careful and should not disturb the elephants by getting out of the car or tuk -tuk and clicking pictures with flash on.

Infinity Pool: Heritance Kandalam
Recommendation
A stay for a day is highly recommended in this hotel which itself is an iconic leisure experience. The hotel is a part of the Aitken Spence Hotels chain. It is costly but there are various early bird offers available.
Foodies should try native delicacies of Sri Lanka during their stay.
Tariffs: 
Standard Room: US$ 130.00
Superior Room:  US$ 220.00 
Exclusive of taxes.

For updated tariffs and reservations:
Reservations: 0112308408
Telephone: 94665555000
Email: ebiz@aitkenspence.lk


4.  Paradise Road Gallery Cafe`,  Colombo


Arched Entrance: Paradise Road Gallery Cafe`, Colombo

The former office of the architect Geoffery Bawa has now been converted to accomodate a cafeteria.
The choreography of transition spaces in the Gallery cafe` is quite subtle and palpable. The contemporary vernacular structure with columns, clay tile roof sloping down over a waterbody around the terracotta flooring in courtyard, with frangipani trees showcase the signature style of Geoffery bawa.

Pool Court, Paradise Road Gallery Cafe`, Colombo

Some theorize that Bawa's work can be best understood through Lunuganga and the Paradise Road Gallery cafe`. Also they encompass the epitome of tropical modernism.

Address:
Paradise Road Gallery Cafe`
Alfred House Road
Colombo 3
Sri Lanka

5. Number 11

Number 11 is the Geoffery Bawa's townhouse where he spent 40 years of his life.
Entrance Corridor, Number 11
The play of light at the entrance corridor is palpable which intrigued the visitors, the corridor seems to be a white tunnel with diffused light splashing on a wall mount owl sculpture which creates a dynamic effect. Then a cropped image appears where one can see diffused light falling on a terracotta horse artefact sits between Chettinad columns, after walking down the corridor the courtyard which is almost intact with the interior space freezes the moment and breaks the complete dialogue one had with the corridor.

There is an entry fee with a guided tour.
For reservations::
Number 11, 33rd Lane
Bagatelle Road
Colombo 3
Sri Lanka
Telephone: +94 11 433 7335
Mobile: +94 77 301 2834
Email: admin@gbtrust.net
Website: https://geoffreybawa.com

Cultural and Historical destinations

1. Galle

Galle Fort Clock Tower
It is the fine example of fortified colonial city built by Portuguese during Dutch Colonial Period, situated in the south western tip of the island. 
Dutches were invited by King of Kandy to protect Sri Lanka from Portuguese colonial rule. So by 17th century the city was extensively fortified by the Dutch.
Today Galle is the World Heritage site with finest fort of colonial era which is still more or less intact and attracts several visitors around the year.
Galle Fort Clock Tower (83 feet high) was built in 1883 is a unique landmark in the Galle Fort premises.

Galle Fort Lighthouse was built in 1938 is another unique attraction for visitors on the other half of the Fort.
Galle Fort Lighthouse

How to reach?
Galle is around 125 km from Colombo, one can either board a train which takes 3 hours to reach, or one can go by road which is 2 hours drive via Southern expressway, one can see miles and miles of Indian ocean during the drive.

Recommendation 
Around the walled city, there are number of contemporary style beer cafe's, lounge, restaurants which are highly recommended.
One should not miss the breakfast in Cafes' around the Galle Fort Lighthouse.

2. Sigriya Rock, Dambulla

Water garden at Sigriya Rock

Sigriya is a unique landscape city built in 5th century. The palace complex located on the top of the Main rock, making it the focal point of the entire city which run along the east-west axis. The axial arrangement and the symmetrical layout of garden can be experienced while walking down the main spine leading to the Main rock with sunken water bodies on both sides. 
Water Gardens are the most striking feature of the Sigriya city placed on the central portion with fine play of steps and plinth formula in water gardens with underground water conduits.
Sigriya Rock
The other gardens in the premises includes:
1. Garden of fountains
2. Boulder garden
3. Terrace garden

UNESCO had declared Sigriya a World Heritage City.

Sigriya Rock

How to reach?

Sigriya rock is 15 minutes drive from Kandalama hotel.

Visiting time: 7:00 am to 5:30 pm
Entry Fee: US$ 15.00
You need atleast 2 hours to see the entire heritage site.
Do not forget to visit the museum in the premises.
Panoramic view: Water Gardens at Sigriya Rock

Panoramic view: From Sigriya Rock

Best time to visit
October to March

Cost of travelling in Sri Lanka 
Currency Exchange Rate:
At the time of our trip (Sept, 2015)
1 INR = 1.90 SLR

Flight fare: We booked Chennai to Colombo return Spice jet flight that cost us around 12,000 INR.

Visa
You may get a visa on arrival in Sri Lanka, that time it cost us around 1000 INR.

Accomodation:
We didn't spend much on hotels, we rather preferred hostels, lodges that were quite reasonable except for a night stay in Heritance Kandalama.
For travelling within Sri Lanka, we boarded trains and buses, for short distance tuk-tuk (three-wheeler).
Total cost of the trip per head was Rs. 40,000 (inclusive of  flight fare, visa, accomodation, shopping etc.)

Shopping and Souvenirs:
Souvenir: Inlay work of Lion Flag on Tea Coaster 

Sri Lanka is famous for sapphires and moonstones.

Do not forget to buy Sri Lankan tea (Ceylon Tea).
Mackwoods Fine Tea- Green tea
Lakshala- Royal Tea

I bought a set of tea coasters as a souvenir and few boxes of Ceylon tea.

I hope this post will help you plan an incredible itinerary. If you have any further queries....
Just give me a shout!










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