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Sunday, April 12, 2020

Shekhawati-- an Open Art Gallery of India


Shekhawati region was on a trade route--the Silk Route, during the turn of 19th century lot of Marwari traders came to settle , when cities like Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Ramgarh, Fatehpur, Dunlod flourished as never before.

After the arrival of Britishers the trade shifted from land route to sea route via Calcutta and Bombay. Marwaris of Shekhawati shifted their sands and lot of havelis came up during 1830 AD-1930 AD that they built for their families.
I travelled to Shekhawati in Feb, 2017 and here I would share some vignettes of an architecture voyage. The destinations covered in this post as follows:
1. Mandawa
2. Nawalgarh
3. Fatehpur
4. Dunlod

A. Mandawa
If globetrotters looking to explore streetlife in Rajasthan, streets of Mandawa are full of frescoes, murals and paintings, it is the largest open art gallery settlement in Shekhawati. It is a gateway to Shekhawati, Castle Mandawa is one of the largest forts of Shekhawati.
Some of the havelis worth visiting are Chokhani haveli, Jhunjhunwala haveli, Sarraf haveli.

1. Castle Mandawa



Castle Mandawa
Mandawa Fort was built in 18th century in the mid of the town, its a fine example of rajput architecture. The frescoes on walls of lobby and dining area are restored and well preserved. The energy efficient courtyards, winding verdahs are worth exploring. The backside of the fort and linear staircase are picturesque.
In the Lawn area, swimming pool on foreground and a linear tall traditional rajasthani structure on background creates a unique ambience which is now a heritage hotel known as Castle Mandawa.
Castle Mandawa

Restaurant, Castle Mandawa

Castle Mandawa

Swimming Pool, Castle Mandawa


Castle Mandawa: Pool Side

Havelis of Shekhawati
The breathtaking streets stacked with havelis(mansions), the jharokhas (bay window) projected on first and second floor of the havelis seems falling onto streets. The exterior walls of havelis adorned with marvellous frescoes and murals, intricate wooden carvings on doors--making the streets of Shekhawati..world's largest open art gallery.
Frescoes and murals depicts the development and activities prevailed during that period. One may find paintings of trains with steam engine on the walls due to the advent of Railways in India by Britishers during colonial period.

2. Chokhani Haveli
It was built in 1910, one of the best preserved havelis in Mandawa.
There are two separate wings in the haveli, as it was supposed to be shared between two brothers.
The haveli differs from conventional havelis due to its grand entrance with stairs leading to the raised chabutra.
Entrance: Chokhani haveli 

Two wings of Chokhani haveli
3. Mohan Lal Sarraf haveli

Mohan Lal Sarraf haveli
 4. Jhunjhunwala haveli
The haveli has one golden room, which has frecoes in gold leaf paint.

Jhunjhunuwala haveli
Wall embellished with Frecoes in gold-leaf paint

Frecoes in gold-leaf paint

Streets of Mandawa
Accomodation
Castle Mandawa is a heritage hotel, one will find best Rajasthani cuisine buffet.

For reservations:
Website: http://castlemandawa.com/

B. Nawalgarh
Nawalgarh was founded in 1675 AD in Shekhawati. The town is smaller in size than Mandawa but houses some magnificient havelis in Shekhawati. Some of them are as follows:

1. Pataudia haveli, Nawalgarh
A visitor might get intrigued exploring the timeless architecture of the haveli because unlike conventional havelis of Shekhawati, there are no frecoes or murals on walls, also the colonial architecture of the haveli differs it from the rest of the havelis. One may find contemporary Palladian splendour in the spatial composition around Colonnades in inner courtyards, a blend of traditional Rajasthani architecture with Italianate structural elements.
There are two Pataudia havelis facing adjacent to each other.
Pataudia haveli

Entrance: Pataudia haveli

Entrance: Pataudia haveli

Corridors: Pataudia haveli

Inner Courtyard: Pataudia haveli

Inner Courtyard: Pataudia haveli
2Poddar haveli, Nawalgarh
The haveli was built in 1902 AD then converted to museum as a 'Center for Art, Culture and Heritage.' It is one of the well restored havelis in Shekhawati.
Poddar haveli and Museum
Visiting hours:
Summers: 8.00am - 8.00pm
Winters: 8.30am - 6.30pm

Contact:
Dr. Ramnath A. Paddar Haveli Museum
Rambilas Poddar Road, Nawalgarh-333 042
Email: aptrust@rediffmail.com

3. Morarka haveli, Nawalgarh
It was built in 1900 AD, it has one unique feature-- the paintings of Jesus Christ on the outer west wall and inner courtyard. It reflects the religious tolerance and cosmopolitan legacy of the Marwari community during that period.
The intricate mirror work on the entrance door facade is also one of the unique feature of the haveli.

Entrance Morarka haveli and Museum
Contact:Morarka Haveli and Museum
Near Gher- ka- Temple
Naya bazar, Nawalgarh-333 042
Email: shekhawatsawai1@gmail.com
            hotchand15@gmail.com



Streets of Nawalgarh
 How to reach?
Nawalgarh is 25km from Mandawa, it takes 40min to reach there.

Accomodation
The Grand haveli is a heritage haveli near bus stand, one of the best places to stay in Nawalgarh.
The Grand haveli
The Grand haveli

The Grand haveli
Fatehpur
Le Prince haveli (French haveli)

Le Prince haveli
The haveli was purchased by a French artist Nadine Le Prince, but the history of haveli dates back to 1800s A.D. It is one of the well preserved havelis in Shekhawati, frescoes and murals at each nook and corner have been restored in natural colors.
A visitor might get intrigued after looking at the swimming pool, bar and cafeteria close to the art gallery. A fine blend of Rajasthani architecture and French lifestyle can be experienced in this haveli. Infact spending a day or two in haveli is an enthralling experience in itself.

How to reach?
Fatehpur is in Sikar district of Rajasthan, it is around 20km drive from Mandawa which takes 30min to reach.

Accomodation
Le Prince haveli (French haveli)

For reservations:
Website: https://www.leprincehaveli.com/

Best time to Visit Shekhawati
October- November and mid-January- March are the best months to visit Shekhawati. Avoid travelling in December or early January because sometimes temperature freezes down to zero degrees.

How to reach Shekhawati?
Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur are all well connected by city of Jaipur and Delhi. Around 140km from Jaipur, and 250 km from national capital Delhi.
Jhunjhunu is the major city in Shekhawati region. Bus ride is little bumpy for backpackers.



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