Shekhawati-- an Open Art Gallery of India

Shekhawati region was on a trade route--the Silk Route, during the turn of 19th century lot of Marwari traders came to settle , when cities like Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Ramgarh, Fatehpur, Dunlod flourished as never before.

After the arrival of Britishers the trade shifted from land route to sea route via Calcutta and Bombay. Marwaris of Shekhawati shifted their sands and lot of havelis came up during 1830 AD-1930 AD that they built for their families.
I travelled to Shekhawati in Feb, 2017 and here I would share some vignettes of an architecture voyage. The destinations covered in this post as follows:
1. Mandawa
2. Nawalgarh
3. Fatehpur
4. Dunlod

A. Mandawa
If globetrotters looking to explore streetlife in Rajasthan, streets of Mandawa are full of frescoes, murals and paintings, it is the largest open art gallery settlement in Shekhawati. It is a gateway to Shekhawati, Castle Mandawa is one of the largest forts of Shekhawati.
Some of the havelis worth visiting are Chokhani haveli, Jhunjhunwala haveli, Sarraf haveli.

1. Castle Mandawa

Castle Mandawa

Mandawa Fort was built in 18th century in the mid of the town, its a fine example of rajput architecture. The frescoes on walls of lobby and dining area are restored and well preserved. The energy efficient courtyards, winding verdahs are worth exploring. The backside of the fort and linear staircase are picturesque.
In the Lawn area, swimming pool on foreground and a linear tall traditional rajasthani structure on background creates a unique ambience which is now a heritage hotel known as Castle Mandawa.

Castle Mandawa

Restaurant, Castle Mandawa

Castle Mandawa

Swimming Pool, Castle Mandawa

Castle Mandawa: Pool Side

Havelis of Shekhawati
The breathtaking streets stacked with havelis(mansions), the jharokhas (bay window) projected on first and second floor of the havelis seems falling onto streets. The exterior walls of havelis adorned with marvellous frescoes and murals, intricate wooden carvings on doors--making the streets of Shekhawati..world's largest open art gallery.
Frescoes and murals depicts the development and activities prevailed during that period. One may find paintings of trains with steam engine on the walls due to the advent of Railways in India by Britishers during colonial period.

2. Chokhani Haveli
It was built in 1910, one of the best preserved havelis in Mandawa.
There are two separate wings in the haveli, as it was supposed to be shared between two brothers.
The haveli differs from conventional havelis due to its grand entrance with stairs leading to the raised chabutra.

Entrance: Chokhani haveli 

Two wings of Chokhani haveli

3. Mohan Lal Sarraf haveli

Mohan Lal Sarraf haveli

 4. Jhunjhunwala haveli
The haveli has one golden room, which has frecoes in gold leaf paint.

Jhunjhunuwala haveli

Wall embellished with Frecoes in gold-leaf paint

Frecoes in gold-leaf paint

Streets of Mandawa

Accomodation
Castle Mandawa is a heritage hotel, one will find best Rajasthani cuisine buffet.

For reservations:
Website: http://castlemandawa.com/

B. Nawalgarh
Nawalgarh was founded in 1675 AD in Shekhawati. The town is smaller in size than Mandawa but houses some magnificient havelis in Shekhawati. Some of them are as follows:

1. Pataudia haveli, Nawalgarh
A visitor might get intrigued exploring the timeless architecture of the haveli because unlike conventional havelis of Shekhawati, there are no frecoes or murals on walls, also the colonial architecture of the haveli differs it from the rest of the havelis. One may find contemporary Palladian splendour in the spatial composition around Colonnades in inner courtyards, a blend of traditional Rajasthani architecture with Italianate structural elements.
There are two Pataudia havelis facing adjacent to each other.

Pataudia haveli

Entrance: Pataudia haveli

Entrance: Pataudia haveli

Corridors: Pataudia haveli

Inner Courtyard: Pataudia haveli

Inner Courtyard: Pataudia haveli

2. Poddar haveli, Nawalgarh
The haveli was built in 1902 AD then converted to museum as a 'Center for Art, Culture and Heritage.' It is one of the well restored havelis in Shekhawati.

Poddar haveli and Museum

Visiting hours:

Summers: 8.00am - 8.00pm

Winters: 8.30am - 6.30pm

Contact:
Dr. Ramnath A. Paddar Haveli Museum
Rambilas Poddar Road, Nawalgarh-333 042
Email: aptrust@rediffmail.com

3. Morarka haveli, Nawalgarh
It was built in 1900 AD, it has one unique feature-- the paintings of Jesus Christ on the outer west wall and inner courtyard. It reflects the religious tolerance and cosmopolitan legacy of the Marwari community during that period.
The intricate mirror work on the entrance door facade is also one of the unique feature of the haveli.

Entrance Morarka haveli and Museum

Contact:Morarka Haveli and Museum
Near Gher- ka- Temple
Naya bazar, Nawalgarh-333 042
Email: shekhawatsawai1@gmail.com
            hotchand15@gmail.com

Streets of Nawalgarh

 How to reach?
Nawalgarh is 25km from Mandawa, it takes 40min to reach there.

Accomodation
The Grand haveli is a heritage haveli near bus stand, one of the best places to stay in Nawalgarh.

The Grand haveli

The Grand haveli

The Grand haveli

Fatehpur
Le Prince haveli (French haveli)

Le Prince haveli

The haveli was purchased by a French artist Nadine Le Prince, but the history of haveli dates back to 1800s A.D. It is one of the well preserved havelis in Shekhawati, frescoes and murals at each nook and corner have been restored in natural colors.
A visitor might get intrigued after looking at the swimming pool, bar and cafeteria close to the art gallery. A fine blend of Rajasthani architecture and French lifestyle can be experienced in this haveli. Infact spending a day or two in haveli is an enthralling experience in itself.

How to reach?
Fatehpur is in Sikar district of Rajasthan, it is around 20km drive from Mandawa which takes 30min to reach.

Accomodation
Le Prince haveli (French haveli)

For reservations:
Website: https://www.leprincehaveli.com/

Best time to Visit Shekhawati
October- November and mid-January- March are the best months to visit Shekhawati. Avoid travelling in December or early January because sometimes temperature freezes down to zero degrees.

How to reach Shekhawati?
Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur are all well connected by city of Jaipur and Delhi. Around 140km from Jaipur, and 250 km from national capital Delhi.
Jhunjhunu is the major city in Shekhawati region. Bus ride is little bumpy for backpackers.

Kerala -- God's Own Country!

Alleppey Backwaters

Looking back at history, Kerala was the first state which had trade links with the western world, it was from this very coast Indian spices reached Europe and trade flourished between India and the west as never before. Though it has been said that Kerala traded spices since Sangam era, if we go further back around 1st century B.C. Muziris--was an ancient harbour on Malabar Coast in Kerala, it was a center for trade links with Romans and Greeks as well as Persians. The exact location of Muziris is unknown to historians and archeologists and is a controversial issue.

In this post some unchartered destinations in Kerala and also some enthralling holiday destinations have been covered:
A. Kochi
B. Allapuzha (Allepey)
C. Kovalam beach
D. Thiruvananthapuram

A. Kochi
Kochi is referred to as the 'Queen of the Arabian Sea'. No city in India blends so many diversified cultures: apart from traditional culture of Kerala, an intrigue mix of Jews, Portuguese, Dutch and British cultural influence can be seen, showcasing historic cosmopolitan legacy of the city.

Tourist destinations in Kochi

1. The Synagogue
It is a landmark of the Jew town in Mattancherry. It is often said that no visitor passes Kochi without finding himself at the door of the Synagogue.

Jewish Synagogue, Kochi

Walking down the Jewish street one will observe an old clock mounted on serene white colonial structure with clay tile sloping roof  which freezes the moment and breaks the dialogue one had with the Jewish street. That pause gives a room for thought, it seems walls of the glorious Jews Synagogue has a lot of stories to tell....

Jewish Synagogue,  Kochi

How to reach?
One may board a ferry from Ernakulam to Mattancherry. In the narrow streets of Mattancherry one may board a Rickshaw--(a three wheeler) which was originally imported from Japan, introduced in Kochi by a Jewish.

2. Some vignettes of  Kochi-Muziris Biennale--2014
I visited Kerala in December 2014, during Kochi- Muziris biennale, it is one of the largest art and architecture exhibition in Asia, in its name Muziris reflects the idea to invoke the ancient legacy of the state.

Pavilion for Kochi-Muziris Biennale--2014

Pavilion for Kochi-Muziris biennale--2014

Street-art, Kochi-Muziris Biennale

Street-art, Kochi-Muziris Biennale

Street-art, Kochi-Muziris Biennale

Street-art, Kochi-Muziris Biennale

Street-art, Kochi-Muziris Biennale

 B. Alappuzha (Alleppey)
If globetrotters looking for finest beaches in the country, Kerala is lined up with entire coast of 600km with sandy beaches. Alleppey beach is the one which leaves the visitor in the state of tranquillity.

Alleppey Beach

Alleppey Beach

Backwaters

If one thing that distinguish Kerala from other sea shore destinations is not only its serene beaches but also its backwaters. Taking a houseboat ride for a day in inland backwaters is a most thrilling experience of a lifetime. It is for this reason, Kerala has been recommended as "50 destinations of a  lifetime" by National Geographic Traveller. A visit to the state is incomplete without exploring a day in backwaters.

Alleppey Backwaters

Alleppey Backwaters, Kerala

House Boat, Backwaters, Kerala

Entrance of a bungalow opening directly onto the backwaters

Inland waterways as the means of transport

How to reach?

Alleppey is around 50km from Kochi and can be reached by road via NH 66, Kerala is a linear state so trip should ideally be planned covering each destinations as you drive from north Kerala to south Kerala. We landed in Kochi and from Kochi we took a cab for Alleppey. 

Accomodation

Heritage home stay in century old houses designed in traditional Kerala architecture with wooden carvings, is highly recommended.

House-boat Tariffs:
Houseboat for a day ride in Alleppey and a night stay will cost: Rs 9000.

For House-boat Reservations:
Alleppey Backwaters
Raj Residence Building,
Near KSRTC Bus Station, Boat Jetty Road,
Alappuzha, Kerala
Telephone: +91 477 3201258
Cell phone: +91 9846184528
Email: alpybackwaters@yahoo.co.in

Heritage Bungalow, Alleppey

Homestay in Heritage Bungalow

Traditional wood carvings 

C. Kovalam beach
Kovalam beach is one of the most pristine beaches in Kerala. The Raviz Kovalam beach resort in the backdrop enhances its beauty and the design of the resort is site specific, instead of imposing a massive structure on the shores of the coast, architect tried to preserve the serene landscape of the beach.

Raviz Kovalam Beach Resort in backdrop of Kovalam beach

Kovalam Beach

Kovalam Beach

How to reach?
Kovalam beach is 4h drive via NH 66 from Alleppey.

Accomodation
Raviz Kovalam Beach Resort is one of the exotic sea facing resorts in Kerala, stay in the resort is an experience in itself. It has been designed by eminent architect Charles Correa in contemporary vernacular style.

Raviz Kovalam Beach Resort, Kerala

For Reservations:
Website: https://www.theraviz.com/
Telephone: +91 471 3051234

D. Thiruvananthapuram

Padmanabhaswami Temple
The temple built in a fusion of Chera style and Dravidian style of architecture, infact its an intricate fusion of Traditional Kerala architecture and Tamil architecture. The temple is one of the main holy abodes of Vaishnavism. A lot of mythical stories can been heard about this temple.
The serene landscape of temple premises may leave visitors in the trance of tranquillity, the temple gopuram (long entrance gate) stands next to the Padma Theertham (Lotus spring water body) with number of traditional Kerala style roof structures and number of palm trees all around.

Padmanabhaswami temple

Napier Museum
It is an architecture masterpiece designed by Robert Chisholm, if one inspect closely it is a blend of gothic elements, indo- saracenic arches, traditional Kerala roof system. The museum houses art and historical artefacts. It was built in late 19th century.

How to reach?
It is 5 km from the city center.

Visiting hours:
10:00 am to 5:00 pm

Napier Museum

Napier Museum

Best time to visit Kerala
For Backwaters: November to Febraury
For Hill stations and beaches: September to March
For Ayurveda: June to August

Flight fare: We booked Mumbai to Kochi return Indigo flight that cost us around 8,000 INR.

Accomodation:
We didn't spend much on hotels, we rather preferred hostels, lodges that were quite reasonable except for a night stay in Kovalam Beach Resort.

Cost of travelling in Kerala
For backpackers total cost of the trip per head was Rs 25,000 (inclusive of flight fare, accomodation, shopping etc.)

Shopping and Souvenirs:
Kerala is famous for coir handicrafts, artefacts, spices, Kerala sarees.

I hope this post will help you plan an incredible itinerary. If you have any further queries....
Just give me a shout!